Tour de Anywhere: A holiday on two wheels

My first cycling holiday was born of necessity. We wanted to tour the wine region of the Loire but no one was volunteering to drive. You’re not supposed to drink and cycle, but the Loire’s not the kind of place where they stop people on bikes for random breath tests. The plan was that the cycling bit of the trip would be purely functional, we could get from one winery to another without anyone having to temper their tasting and testing and at the same time burn off the calories of the accompanying cheese. But for a purely functional mode of transport it became one of the highlights of the trip.

Riding a bike between the fields of heavy vines on a late spring afternoon, basket carefully balanced with wine bottles, thoughts pleasantly hazy from the mornings tasting was really very enjoyable.

Out civilized jaunt is only one kind of cycling holiday, before taking that trip I had in my mind it would be like one of those journeys across countries or continents that people make documentaries about, visiting remote villages with unique cultures and miles of quiet scenery flashing past in the background; the aim being to become as immersed in the culture as possible, the local people enchanted by the strange visitor who doesn’t seem to have anything they should be doing at home.

Or else one of those country lane, green and pleasant land, family breaks. Family all cycling in a smiling line as they roll between seaside villages, the Dad pulling one of those bike trailers – how we could have done with one of those in the Loire to tow our wine in so we didn’t worry about falling over into a mess of glass and grape juice. The Danube runs in the background, and generous, purpose built cycle ways flowing past under the tyres…

My more adventurous companions followed up our cycle with a mountain biking trip though through the glens, dales and Bens of the Scottish highlands. They came back muddy, saddle sore and invigorated, raving about careening down mountains at break neck speed and ploughing though streams sending walls of water flying. Both of them had war wounds, but nothing a draught of whiskey, a hot pub meal and a comfy bed couldn’t sort out – they stayed most nights in B&B’s they weren’t feeling that adventurous…

But apparently they’re already planning their next trip in the Atlas Mountains. That one will involve camping out and carrying everything in and out with them. They’re so keen they’ve already gone into training, carrying their wine and whiskey back home with them from the supermarket in panniers on the sides of their bikes, their now permanent modes of transport. For them it wasn’t just a really enjoyable two weeks of freedom in the sun drenched, chateau sprinkled Loire, but a herald from their new lifestyle calling – and as they keep reminding me, “It is the greenest way to see the planet.”.

This doesn't have to be the Tour de France. If you don’t have your own bike there are companies that will hire one out to you; if you don’t know the way they’ll guide you and if you don’t really want to carry your luggage some organised tours will porter it for you each day. In most cases you do need to pedal, but some companies provide a snack and rest van which follows the pack, and takes you in when you’ve had enough.

More Great Cycling Holidays » Where my wheels may take me

	Cycling on the Lofoten Islands Cycling in Nord-Norge, Norway Go north in June for 24 hour riding, hiking and fresh air you can taste on Norway's pretty Lofoten Islands, a string of small, bowler hat shaped, green islands set just off the coast. Long bridges or ferries take you between the islands and you can cycle round the rims and hike up to the summits as the mood takes you so there is plenty of diversity of view. The roads are surprisingly well surfaced considering how empty many of these islands are, with small fishing villages the only civilisation (obviously the fish is excellent, but prices in general are quite expensive, especially alcohol.). Staying over night in rorbu cabins is your best bet for accommodation, built for fishermen to spend their winder nights in they're all unique but usually have a traditional wood stove and bunks, so it's quite cosy. There is only one ferry to the mainland so you may need to book in advance, as with the rorbus. Review by Andrew Straw Photo by flickr user [charlie cravero]
	Cycling Chile's Lake District Cycling in Puerto Montt, Chile This region is another cyclists dream, plenty of spectacular scenery, including mountains, volcanoes and the many bright blue lakes which give the region it’s name. There are too many options here, with plenty of suitable routes and trails and it really depends on how much time you have and how fit you are as to which are the best towns to base yourself or which are the best routes to follow. Some of the regions highlights are the Parque National Alcerce Andino, for one of the worlds oldest rainforests, the trees forming a cathedral like canopy, Parque National Vincente Perez Rosales (Chile’s first national park) the Volcan Osorno, for the hardened lava fields and the snow fields and the huge waterfalls and hot springs nestled in it’s sides, and the glassy expanse of Lago Llanquihue along fjord like terrain. It’s most likely that you’ll start your journey in coastal city, Puerto Montt, where there is a small airport. There are plenty of small towns dotting the region, many of them have the German looking architecture of the immigrants who settled here making it look quite a lot like Switzerland, so you’ll be able to sleep and eat comfortably if you prefer. Review by Jake Marsden Photo by flickr user pellaea
	Camino de Norte on a bike Cycling in Ourense, Spain This was once an important pilgrims route for Christians when the Camino Frances was made too dangerous. It winds along the Asturian coast and Galicia and was originally an old Roman road called the Via Agrippa. This is a more challenging trip with multiple river crossings and some dangerous feeling tracks quite close to the ocean’s edge, it’s also at times rocky and sandy and the markings aren’t brilliant - it is spectacular though and well worth any difficulties you encounter along it. Much of the path can be followed on side roads off the motorway which were built for car so pretty smooth. The route proper begins in Irun on the French border and crosses the plains towards the coast before following the coastline along to Galicia then turning inland towards Santiago. The entire length of the path is 825ks and to give you an idea of the route it passes through Bilbao, Santander, Luarca, Mondonedo and joins the Camino Frances at Arzua. Alternatively base yourself in one of the coastal towns and take day trips out. Summer would probably have the best weather conditions but it’s quite a rainy region so factor in a couple of extra days just in case you need to take cover unexpectedly. Expect to see plenty of religious architecture and some relics as well as beautiful coastal and rural scenery. Review by Jake Marsden Photo by flickr user Juanjeitor
	Cycling the Rhone Valley Trail Cycling in Switzerland The Rhone Valley is, without being too twee, charming: it’s mix of rural, wine lands and alpine scenery and the pretty chalet towns, castles and cosmopolitan resorts around Lake Geneva make it a varied ride (or possibly a walk). If you start in the alpine region near Oberwald or Brig at the head of the Rhone Valley you can even assure yourself of a gently downwards sloping journey. Beginning amongst the mountains and alpine meadows, one of the highlights is being able to see across the Rhone where you’re journey is about to take you. The first vineyard you’ll get to will probably be Visperterminen, also the highest vineyard in Europe and situated unusually amongst pine forests (try their cold climate wine, the flavours are much sharper than you will probably be expecting.). A detour via St. Leonard will take you past the subterranean lakes, or you can stay beside the Rhone and pass through Sion, a town of historicaly large proportions and dramatic architecture. Below that you begin to catch glimpses of Lake Geneva through the softening mountains and the countryside fills quite suddenly with fruit trees and more vineyards. The final legs of the trail take you along the banks of Lake Geneva, which is again nothing short of charming. It’s the kind of Europe imagined by the 18th and 19th Century. Arrange to stay in Nyon or St. Prex, both much more traditionally European than nearby Lausanne. The whole trip will take you about six days of 50k a day, but there are plenty of route choices to make along the way. Review by Jake Marsden Photo by flickr user MuntyPix
	Cycling the Lycian Way and the Tekke Peninsular Cycling in Aegean Region, Turkey The spectacular scenery of the Lycian Way along Turkey’s Tekke Peninsular makes an excellent riding backdrop. The way is really a trekking route, but some portions of the track are suitable to bike along, alternatively the region itself has some other short fairly easy loop rides if you base yourself in Ovacik, Kas, Finike or surrounds. The views changes as you travel which is one of the nicest things about this region. The meadows of wildflowers and strawberries give out to forests of Bay Trees and olive groves, then the scenery becomes more rock as you pass through a region of canyons approaching Mount Olympos. Most people are interested in travelling the Lycian Way because of the history of the place and there are plenty of historic ruins, tombs and interesting architecture, a highlight being the Byzantine churches and the towns with their Moroccan looking Ottoman domes. The whole route is more than 500k between Fethiye and Antalya and there are parts where you need to be prepared to dismount if you were attempting to complete the journey, but if you’re adventurous it’s a good challenge and there are lost of inclines and descents. Part of the track is graded but part is quite rocky. Go in the milder months, the coast of Turkey is pretty hot in summer. Review by Jake Marsden Photo by flickr user I was in Turkey
	Summer cycling in Provence Cycling in Avignon, France Our closest friends thought that we’d finally lost the plot. Hadn’t we realised that Provence in August could be hotter than Mauritius in May? Didn’t we know that only mad dogs and French men head to the hills rather than to the sea in high summer? Was our French not fluent enough to grasp that staying in pretty “villages perches” would require lots of uphill climbs? Undeterred, we made our way south (exceptionally civilised 6-hour Eurostar journey direct to Avignon) where we spent our first night in the region in the former Roman garrison town of St Didier. Right from the hotel door, the cycling was gloriously flat as we headed out towards vineyards, farming hamlets and thousand-year-old olive groves, always with the jagged limestone pinnacles of Les Dentelles de Montmirail as a dramatic backdrop. Despite its popularity, this corner of Provence is almost wholly unspoiled, combining rural tranquillity with the most stunning landscapes, and hardly seems to have changed in centuries. We stopped for lunch in the mediaeval hillside town of Beaumes de Venise, famous for producing one of France’s best sweet white wines. (The Muscat grape itself was imported when the Greeks colonised the town as a spa.) With shady squares, stone fountains and tiny cobbled streets, it was easy to spend a couple of hours here before continuing on further through Grenache vine country near the majestic Mont Ventoux (1,912m). Up in the nearby Dentelles hills is the pretty wine town of Gigondas – masses of tasting opportunities and impressive old chateau dominating the town. From Beaumes, it’s a steady uphill climb to the pretty village of Suzette before a welcome downhill whiz through forests, vineyards and cherry orchards to the fortified town of Malaucene (where Pope Clement V once lived). The labyrinthine old quarter provides a good lunch stop before a flat bowl along country lanes to one of France’s most extensive Roman sites at Vaison-la-Romaine: 6000-seat theatre, baths, houses and streets. We spent two nights here – evening meals La Bartevalle were undoubtedly the gastronomic highlight of the trip! Our next cycling stretch took us first to mediaeval Seguret, perched on the lower flanks of the Dentelles mountains and officially ranked as one of “les plus beaux villages en France”: glorious views from its C14 church stretch right across to the distant Massif Central. It was then on through cherry orchards and on to Cairanne, a pretty village in the heart of the Cotes de Rhone wine country. From here you can complete the circular route towards St. Didier. This final stretch is particularly gentle, taking in ever-changing landscapes of forests, vineyards and cherry orchards. As we pedalled, we were engulfed by the heady scent of the garrigue – the rich mix of lavender, wild herbs and colourful flowers so unique to Provence. En route, we passed through postcard-pretty Pernes-les-Fontaines – famous for its 40 fountains, many of which are now listed monuments. It also boasts excellent grapes and produces the only bubbly in the region – the last lunch of the trip was invariably the finest and longest! We return to St Didier in the late afternoon. During the last week, we’ve cycled around 150kms, and enjoyed the most glorious mix: gentle cycling, rich rolling countryside, magnificent historic sites, fabulous meals and world-famous wines. Yes, it’s been hot and, yes, there have been some hills, (but only short, get-off-and-push ones!) – we wouldn’t change a thing! Review by Catherine Crone Photo by Catherine Crone
	Cycling in Umbria Cycling in Umbria, Italy The gently rolling hills, vineyards and olive groves of Umbria offer the perfect cycling backdrop. Exploring off the beaten tourist track, medieval hill towns, farms of wheat and sunflowers and spectacular views at the top of rewarding inclines, riders will experience the best Italian traditions of good local foods, good local wines, colourful local and religious culture and arts, and warm hospitality. Umbria's central town, Todi, with its medieval buildings and authentic piazza is an excellent choice for a base, at the top of a hill it‘s easy to roll down and ride out every morning. From there you can take day trips along flat tracks to wine town, Torgiano, a better choice for riders looking for a base surrounded by level terrain, and Assisi with its famous art and pink tinged architecture. Assisi is a popular tourist destination, so it's a busy place to stay, but nice on a day trip, the highlights would have to be the Basilica of St. Francis and the detail in the contrasting Roman and Pagan architecture. Nearby Spello is a smaller version of Assisi, also built of stone tinged with pink from the iron in the soil. It's only about eight miles away but is overlooked by most visitors, yet still has lovely architecture and a beautiful church with a fresco by famous renaissance artist, Pinturicchio. Also worth visiting is Bevagna, a small traditional agricultural town with a well preserved dry moat and wall. Make sure you try the local specialty rolled pasta, umbricelli, traditionally prepared with truffles and olive oil and if you come during October you'll be there for the Chocolate Festival centred around Perugia, the Italian chocolate capital. If you haven't been to Umbria before, it’s located right next to Tuscany, so the landscape is similar, but because it's more verdant much of the country is a miss matched patchwork of farms growing mostly wheat, sunflowers, grapes and olives. Towns are still very rustic, think warm, pale stone buildings and cobblestone streets and with less tourism local lifestyles are focused on agriculture and tradition. Newer riders needn't be intimidated by the softly rolling hills and valleys, a good standard of fitness and confidence in the saddle are enough to enjoy this area on a bike and despite Todi's situation off the tourist bus route there are still varied accommodation options from small family run "agriturismos" or farm stays, to four star hotels. October is a good time to come for the Chocolate Festival, but apart from that between May and June, and September, you have the most pleasant weather conditions. Bring a bike lock for when you want to leave your bike to explore the beautiful local churches or towns. Review by Eileen Holland Photo by flickr user pizzodisevo