Octopus's Garden in the shade:Snorkeling Guide

Submerged in water, you float slowly - sounds and sights distorted, senses dulled by the extra weight. Not just a cliché, it’s really another world down there, best explored with minimal kit: a mask and snorkel. Underwater creatures dart by in a perplexing rainbow of colours you don’t see on land animals, and the landscape is more like another planet than dry earth.

I love snorkeling. It’s calm and peaceful in the underwater snorkeling world. I like the way the sun plays patterns on the tide streaked seafloor and I like the exotic look and feel of coral. I like considering what fish must think of me when they see me snorkeling by(probably not that much, by all reports they’re none too bright, but I imagine them being baffled in a jovial sort of way.) and I like they way your body hovers and that you can be still and watchful, slightly unwieldy, like any animal out of its normal habitat. Obviously the best snorkeling experiences are in with the most colourful and exotic fish and warmest water, but with a bit of patience and the right temperature I can stare through my skorkel mask at less colourful fish and an absence of coral for equally as long as I can flashy reds and oranges offset by tropical blue seas.

Snorkeling is easily the best value experience you can have in the water. Snorkeling is also easy full stop, needing minimal training or preparation, just snorkeling gear. To get the most out of your trip find out what animals or corals you can expect to see where you’re headed, this doesn’t take long but it means you’ll be able to tell a better story than if you come back after your day underwater claiming you saw a “tiny pink four eyed Chinese dragon with wings”. You’ll also know if you spot something rare, but again, any creature you get to have a proper look at under these conditions takes fascinating to a whole new level.

All resorts and hotels near coral - where snorkeling is at its best, given the variety of fish attracted by the coral - will have dive or snorkeling boats. Some have coral right offshore - for example in the Sinai - while others will require you to jump in a boat to get to the best spots. It's a fantastic experience for kids, too - a bit of exotic adventure, opening up a whole new world for them, in a relatively safe environment - provided, of course, they are supervised, and they are strong swimmers.

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Snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef

Snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef

Snorkelling in Great Barrier Reef, Australia

The Great Barrier Reef is appropriately described by superlatives. It's the largest organic structure ever created on the planet. At 1250 miles long, it's easily viewed from outer space, and its broad frontiers encompass one of the world’s most diverse marine ecosystems. Roughly 400 species of coral provide habitat for over 1500 varieties of fish and several thousand invertebrate species. It's also the largest of 144 World Heritage Sites, and as one of the oldest and most refined marine parks, has benefited from over twenty years of protection and management.

The reef is as diverse as it is grand and any attempt to summarize its vast diversity and wealth wouldn’t do it justice. Because of its distance from shore, it is difficult, but not impossible for independent travelers to access the Great Barrier Reef.

Snorkelers can visit the reef in several ways.

1) There are numerous live aboards, many of which hail out of Cairns and Port Douglas, but most of these cater to divers rather than snorkelers.

2) Many casual visitors to the Great Barrier Reef elect to experience a day or two of snorkeling on the large day boats that also operate out of Cairns and Port Douglas. Although this option does get you technically into Great Barrier Reef water, and although the transit boats are fast, you are generally traveling with large groups of people and the actual time in the water is fairly limited.

3) Perhaps a more dedicated and rewarding option is to spend a few days at the exclusive (very expensive) Lizard Island resort, the rather upscale resort on Heron Island, or the moderately-positioned resort on Lady Elliot Island. The more adventurous snorkeler can also find a few campsites on Lizard Island that offer neither water, food nor power, and are priced accordingly. Each of these locations offer shore snorkeling which includes sandy beach terrain, shallow patch reef with robust stands of various branching and table corals that harbor many fish and invertebrates. These start just a few inches beneath the water's surface. There is also the option, which I would recommend, to take boats provided daily by the resorts if you wish to explore further afield.

Review by Joel Simon's photo Joel Simon

Photo by flickr user diongillard

Snorkelling around Roatan

Snorkelling around Roatan

Snorkelling in Honduras

In contrast to most other Caribbean destinations, many of Roatan’s reefs feature a broad shallow terrace of luxuriant lettuce coral, edged by dramatic vertical drop-offs starting in only 15 – 20 feet of water. In addition to the coral, prolific sponges, sea fans, and other gorgonians offer the snorkeler lush vistas filled with color and texture. Thriving amidst the coral is a broad diversity of fish. Roatan offers fish enthusiasts ample opportunity to view grunts, lizardfish, flounders, scrawled filefish, red-lipped blennies, jawfish (the males brood the eggs in their mouths!), small rays, blue and indigo hamlets (that mate reliably between 5:00 - 5:30 every afternoon!) and the occasional harmless nurse shark. Although not entirely predictable, it’s also possible to spot large numbers of elegant eagle rays. The Bay Islands, of which Roatan is the largest, lie roughly 35 miles off the North coast of Honduras. Consequently, the surrounding waters stay clear, and the reefs remain healthy. Roatan is a slender gentle ridge stretching 40 miles east to west, but less than 4 miles wide. This orientation gives us access to either the north or south shore, providing reasonably protected snorkeling regardless of wind direction. The lush fringing reefs of Roatan offer some of the most topographically diverse snorkeling opportunities in the Western Caribbean. Near-shore stands of elkhorn and staghorn coral are flanked by slightly deeper ridges of dense lettuce coral. These are separated by narrow sand channels lined with purple sea fans and "soft" corals gently swaying back and forth, adding motion, color and texture to the vistas. Snorkeling here is like flying above a series of small, forested mountain ranges with deep canyons in between. These “spurs and grooves” typically lead to a dramatic small wall, where the coral formation drops vertically to a depth of between 50 – 80 feet. The precipice however, is usually in only 15 – 20 feet of water. In addition to opportunities to view (and hold!) local iguanas and endemic birds, one option for the visitor is an opportunity for a close encounter with captive dolphins. Really close! Under the guidance of a trainer, and while standing in waist deep water, you can hold a dolphin, kiss a dolphin, and intimately appreciate dolphin strength, agility, and intelligence.

Review by Joel Simon's photo Joel Simon

Photo by flickr user pony_33406

Vanua Levu snorkeling spots

Vanua Levu snorkeling spots

Snorkelling in Fiji

Starting in California where I live, Fiji is one of the most accessible South Pacific snorkeling destinations. Besides the remarkable reefs, Fiji fits the image of “tropical paradise” many of us share: palm-studded white sand beaches, clear water, and one of the world’s most friendly indigenous cultures now that the days of cannibalism are gone. An added advantage is Fiji’s lack of malaria.

Fringing reefs are common along many of the coastlines surrounding Fiji’s 322 islands, and there exists plenty of barrier reef as well. The reef off the north coast of Vanua Levu is the fourth longest in the world and offers an incredible variety of fish and coral and a profusion of invertebrates. Huge flat-topped coral heads called “bommies” rise from the deep to within a few feet of the surface, which along with the protected interiors of barrier reefs make it one of the world’s great snorkeling venues.

In contrast with the Caribbean islands, Vanua Levu’s reefs offer prolific soft corals, presenting the snorkeler with resplendent views of brilliant reds, yellows, and pinks. While the Caribbean has 68 species of coral, the South Pacific boasts over 700 (so far) and over 3000 species of fish, many of which are resident on the reefs of Fiji. Striped, spotted, dappled, and dotted, these fish come in colors and shapes only nature can inspire. Unique creatures that you can expect to see include lionfish, with their elegant plume-like fins; amusing and very approachable clownfish in their host anemones; brilliantly colored and patterned butterflyfish, triggerfish, and wrasse; and the possibility of manta rays, schooling barracudas, and the occasional reef shark.

Review by Joel Simon's photo Joel Simon

Photo by flickr user gshowman

The Seahorse Nursery

The Seahorse Nursery

Wildlife in Recife, Brazil

The mangrove forests near Porto de Galinhas are home to a huge seahorse colony and nursery. Seahorses live amongst the mangrove roots where the water is still and they hang on to the roots with their tails during tidal movements, so they’re easy to spot.

There are two kinds of seahorse to see here: the long snouted seahorse and the short snouted seahorse. You would think from their unimaginative names the seahorses would all look quite similar (except for the length of their snouts) however they come in a huge range of colours that depend more on genetics and their environment than their species name, so you will see everything from orange to green and all shades between.

Local fishing boats run trips amongst the mangroves and most guides will scoop up a seahorse (in a glass jar) and give you a chance to get friendly.

Fish and crabs also use the mangrove forest as a nursery and between September and March sea turtles come to lay their eggs along the nearby beaches.

Porto de Galinhas is also a good spot to enjoy the palm laced beaches, go kitesurfing, diving or snorkel on the relatively unspoilt reefs.

Review by World Reviewer Staff's photo World Reviewer Staff

Photo by flickr user laszlo-photo

Underwater Bonaire

Underwater Bonaire

Snorkelling in Netherlands Antilles

For over 25 years, this small, arid Dutch island located only 50 miles north of Venezuela, has carefully guarded its primary resource---a lush band of fringing reef that encircles the entire island. The Bonaire Marine Park, which protects the marine environment from the high tide line to a depth of 200 feet, has allowed the marine life to thrive while infusing an unmatched environmental sensitivity throughout Bonaire’s water-oriented community. While other islands have continued traditional spear-fishing activities, on Bonaire it has been illegal since 1972, and the fish know it.

This island offers the snorkeler opportunities to see more species of fish, in greater numbers, more intimately, than any other Caribbean destination I know. Gold-specked angelfish will actually approach you. Schools of blue tangs, sergeant majors, brown and blue chromis, and French grunts are prolific. Trumpetfish, groupers, peacock flounders, butterflyfish, coneys, orange-spotted filefish, and more, all circulate without fear of human presence. There are more parrotfish in the waters surrounding Bonaire that I’ve ever seen (or heard!) anywhere else. Although I’m careful about the use of brochure superlatives, Bonaire is truly a fish lover’s paradise.

As part of the European Union, the island offers a friendly atmosphere where the desalinated water is good to drink, the food is well-prepared and safe, almost everyone speaks excellent English (as well as Dutch, Spanish and Papiamentu), and there is minimal risk of tropical disease.

Review by Joel Simon's photo Joel Simon

Photo by flickr user tanstaafl5813

Exploring the Namena Barrier Reef

Exploring the Namena Barrier Reef

Snorkelling in Fiji

In good weather this long narrow, open water reef provides an ideal environment for larger fish and smaller sharks, like silver tip sharks and grey reef sharks. There are a couple of popular diving and snorkelling sites along the reefs ridge, but as with all open water snorkelling you need to either have experience yourself or go with an experienced guide to get the best out of your water time, this will also help with directions to the places I will mention. In an area near the edge of the reef are three long thin bommies the tops of which are only about six feet below the surface, these bommies, called Chimneys are home to nudibranches, clown fish, hard and soft corals and elegant pipe fish which are among my favourite small fish to watch. A bit deeper below the surface you’ll catch site of barracudas and maybe a grey reef shark. At the other side of the reef is a much larger single bommie called Magic Mound which is about thirty feet wide, on the flat top of which lives an intricate array of coral, twisted lace sea fans and hard and soft corals amongst the coral caps which make good homes to lionfish. This site is where I saw the most sharks during my most recent trip to Fiji in 2005.

Review by Daniella May's photo Daniella May

Photo by flickr user Looking Glass

Snorkeling East of Eden, Koh Payu

Snorkeling East of Eden, Koh Payu

Snorkelling in Thailand

This is my second favourite snorkeling island of the Similan group, it’s fringed by a shallow reef of plate and staghorn corals highlighted by a couple of massive sea fans which starts almost straight off the beach. One of the most beautiful bommies I’ve seen lies just off this reef, it’s large and shaped like a mushroom cloud, but it’s surface is delicate and inhabited by so many fish that it gives the impression of constant swirling movement. The caves between the coral heads that make up the bommie are incredibly overpopulated by smaller fish and tiny shell fish hiding from the coral trout, lionfish, gobies, pufferfish, box fish, triggerfish, wrasse and eels. Larger fish lay their eggs here so there are lots of young from the larger varietals who also crowd in close to the coral walls. On the top nearer the surface live the nudibranch and flatworms, who hide amongst the coral fronds.

One of the nice things about diving and snorkeling in the Similans is that they’re now well protected so you hear that sites are improving rather than deteriorating.

Review by Daniella May's photo Daniella May

Photo by flickr user jpslim

Diving and snorkeling the Somosomo Strait

Diving and snorkeling the Somosomo Strait

Diving in Fiji

More soft coral than I have seen anywhere else and growing in beautiful, delicate looking clumps amongst seductively swaying anemones, a paradise for both fish and divers.

There are plenty of great sites in the straight, catering to tastes in walls, big fish, colour, rocky shapes, it’s just a matter of what you like to dive amongst, but Rainbow Reef, the name says it all, is one of the highlights if you like corals and colour.

Review by Nick Shaw's photo Nick Shaw

Photo by flickr user gshowman

Underwater visit to the 'Christ of the Deep'

Underwater visit to the 'Christ of the Deep'

Diving in South East, United States

Not a challenging or particularly exciting dive this is one of those that almost anyone can do and which will probably inspire you on to do more. The water is pretty clear and bright, the bottom white sand and the coral is quite good considering how close this dive is to shore and how crowed the waterways around the marine reserve are. Christ of the Deep himself is a friendly beacon as you approach him, often surrounded by people having underwater wedding ceremonies, which is a particularly cool thing to swim into.

Florida Keys Christ is the third in a line, all made to protect lovers of the ocean and underwater exploration so it’s a nice dive to get you started on a Florida trip. You can guess from the wedding comment earlier that this is a very popular dive. There are about 15 places to moor your boat but even then you may still have to come back later when it’s quieter. We were introduced to Smokey the Barracuda who seems to be under the impression that the visitors are all there to see him not the statue. Used to people, Smokey ate out of my hand, as did one of the groupers we came across. Eagle rays and stingrays were less friendly but incredibly beautiful as they flapped their wings and cruised gracefully just above the sand floor. Fish and statues of Christ, not an obvious choice but then it suits my tastes well and was definitely, despite the crowds, a very worthwhile and memorable experience.

Review by LK Barromet's photo LK Barromet

Photo by flickr user raypilla

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